In the South of Spain

Kathy and Edward

Christian statues, Islamic writing ...

We visited Kathy, a friend who lives near Seville, for David's winter vacation. It was lovely! Downtown Seville is beautiful even during the trash crisis. Many of the streets are extremely narrow - often too narrow for cars to pass - so that they provide shade for people passing by. The buildings are old and very beautiful with elaborate statutes and writing. It felt a bit like home with an LA-type climate. The church you can see was "recycled" several times. It was used by Christians and by turks. I was impressed (and glad) that they choose to add to it instead of destroying the existent art work, which is the way it should always be.


Kathy owns two beautiful and friendly greyhounds, Eli and Abril, whom the children loved. I am not joking when I say beautiful. Eli is a pure-bread greyhound that participated in a one-time fashion show next to a beautiful human and I think won some dog contests as well, while Abril is of mixed race and has a personal charm of her own. Greyhounds are big, but graceful and steady - not jumpy - and due to the large amount of time Kathy invests in talking to them, they felt almost human and played well with the children as long as no-one sat on them, which is a reasonable restriction. David was trusted enough to be allowed to hold onto Abril's leash (and sometimes Eli's) on walks and Edward showed reason and gentleness towards both dogs.

We ate lots of fresh oranges and mandarines from the orchards there, which taste incomparably better than anything I have bought in Swiss or American stores, and some really good strawberries. The olives were amazing as well. However, the oranges from trees on the streets are like lemons and can be used as such. The olives from the trees were not very big and did not taste comparably to those found in jars. Although, salt and other spices have a big influence on the typical taste of conserved olives, this is still a reminder of how much work it takes to create all the prefect fruits we like to eat and how "man-made" everything we eat is. It must have been particularly hard to tame nature in places like Spain and even harder to live in these places 100+ years ago.

The many new and empty houses
There were many new, empty houses owned by bankrupt builders. There was a private street next to where Kathy lives full of very beautiful empty homes. They were also building new apartment buildings in that area even though the already built ones were empty. In the long term, as the economy recovers, I do hope that the homes will be lived in and will raise the standard of living for people in the area.

The street we lived on

We visited a pilot home for sale. It was beautiful, but they were asking for over 400 000 Euros in an economy with lots of unemployment where all loans are until pay-down and the banks do not give many loans now. A home loan is not tied to the house like in the US where the worst thing that happens to you if you default on payments is to lose your home. In Europe, you lose your home, the bank will sell it for much less than your loan (if it sells) and then the struggle to pay the remaining part of the loan continues.

Among the olive trees

some new buildings

Kathy lives next to a former orchard of olive trees. Before I went there I imagined beautiful, straight trees like we have in park. In Spain, the climate is much tougher with lots of dry, hot months every year. So, trees that are hundreds of years old are almost like a bush with thick trunks and low branches. Some parts of it dry, some live. The wood of the olive trees is very hard. It can be seen that their life has been an almost continuous struggle with the very hot and dry climate. It seems that after the long struggle they should have gained some respect and some rights, too, and it is unfortunate that most of these trees are being cut to make room for new buildings. Like in LA, in parks they water the vegetation a lot to keep it green and they must do the same on some streets although I did not see as many flowers as in LA, but I guess it's unfair to compare Hollywood with anything else. If they have water, the trees can go very big in warm climates. The tree that Mihai was climbing is one of the oldest trees is Spain.

The sheep herd

In the last day it rained and then the olive orchard filled with grazing sheep and goats. There were many hundreds of them and some of the goats even climbed the olive trees to eat the leaves. The children enjoyed looking at them and I wondered how much less fresh grass they get than their Swiss counterparts, which reflected in what they left behind.

The children and the snail

Animals and insects were hibernating: A temperature of 15 Celsius degrees in Spain means winter when insects, reptiles and

Eli and Abril dressed for rain

animals hibernate. A tailless salamander was sleeping inside a loosely attached tree bark, and the bugs were sleepy and hiding too. One rainy day, a huge snail with an elongated shell came out for a walk. Even though in Switzerland it rains a lot, I have not seen snails that big before, but perhaps it's because in Switzerland there is much more vegetation and hence more places for snails to hide.

More lax attitudes towards childcare: One of the parks we went to had a sign saying that children under the age of three cannot be left unattended, which means that children over three are considered independent enough to be left in the park to play while parents drink at a bar (or exercise nearby).

Seville's trash crisis and the demonstrations

A Mechanized Protester

Trash workers refused to pick up trash for several weeks and, of course, this happened while we were there. It's good they chose to do this in winter!

Kathy told us it was a protest against lowering the salaries of the workers in salubrity. However, the demonstrations were not limited to the trash situation. People holding were signs that Spain should take money from the bankers to invest them in education, etc.

The end...
I am concluding with a picture with a beautiful plant with thorns and of us next to the horses and the orange trees in Seville.

  Laughing in the car.

Oh... below are some pictures of the children and my mom in the car. I thought they looked cute.

An attempt at being serious...

Note: I am scheduling this post to appear close to when our visit to Spain happened. While this is not optimal in terms of visibility, it will help me keep track of events later on.

Why did I not post pictures of the trash? For several reasons. First, I am not found of trash.  While we did take some pictures of some subset of us (not me) sitting in front of trash, I forgot on whose camera or phone it was and it's not important enough to be worth searching for. Also, plenty of professional photographers must have taken pictures of the trash in Seville, and I am not aiming to compete with them.

First visit to the European Space Agency

ACES (a precise atomic clock) will be taken to the Columbus Space lab in 2014.

At the end of November, Mihai and I visited the European Space Research and Technology Center (ESTEC) in the Netherlands to present a seminar. It was my first invited talk in Europe!  I talked about the applicability of atomic clocks on Earth and in space and Mihai lead the discussion that followed. Both the discussion and the seminar went really well! We then attended a conference on optical networks, which I will discuss in a separate post.

First Impressions of ESA
Once you pass the front gates of ESTEC, you see numerous flags that move as the wind blows. Each represents a country that is part of ESA. Our host picked us up from the ID check-point. The hallway was paved with stars and every now and then there was a stand with a little mock-up of an ESA satellite flying around the Earth. The most impressive models were that of Envisat, the largest civilian Earth-observing satellite ever put into space.  It monitored the Earth between 2002 to 2012. In addition  to the little model inside, just outside ESA there was a light life-size model of Envisat.  The original satellite weights about 8 tons. Unfortunately, it became inoperative and ESA lost contact with it in April 2012.

I had forgotten space in the proximity of Earth is pretty crowded: there are many thousands of satellites orbiting our planet. It is unclear how to decommission Envisat. Two objects pass within 200 meters of Envisat every year. So, the probability of collision with other objects is quite small, but if it does happen the cloud of debris would be much more dangerous than the big satellite because it contains lots of small objects traveling at high speed in unpredictable trajectories. Even screws lost in orbit can damage the International Space Station (ISS), which is the biggest satellite that goes around the Earth. A Russian and a US communication satellite did collide in 2009 without much damage to other flying devices.

My seminar and the discussion that followed provided us with ideas and enthusiasm for future work. We are following up with emails and phone meetings, and I hope some cool science and collaborations will result from this trip.

The Space Mobile!
After we came back to Switzerland, my brother, Mihai, bought a toy for the children with the Earth and 8 satellites/vehicles that go around it.  It's hanging from the ceiling as I write. We have (1) the ISS, (2) the Space Shuttle, which was a partially reusable spacecraft that was used for 135 missions from 1981 to 2011 (it fixed the Hubble telescope, took people to and from the ISS, and much more), (3) Sputnik (the world's first artificial satellite launched in 1957; it was 58 cm in diameter - the size of a beach ball), (4) Apollo 11 (went to the Moon), (5) Mir (first modular space station; used between 1986 and 2001), (6) Soyuz (still used by the ISS; a Soyuz rocket will be used by the LISA Pathfinder), (7) Skylab (America's first experimental space station from the 1970s) and (8) Mercury (first international manned spacecraft).

Overall, the Space Mobile is a nice toy that encourages children to love space, space history and space missions! ... and, of course, it is not sold or designed by ESA. No toys were provided there. I would have liked to see some outreach with books for children and young adults and even some toys.

First Time in India

The bride and groom & me.

In December 2012 I visited India to attend the wedding of a very dear friend of mine from graduate school. It was my first time in India and my first time at a Hindu wedding.  I was there for a week and had a wonderful time. On the left you can see the picture of me with the lovely bride and groom, who were very happy and so suited for each other.

Mumbai and Juhu Beach

In the Arabian Sea.

Sunset on Juhu beach.

 I first went to Mumbai.  I stayed at the Novotel on Juhu beach where part of the wedding was conducted and shared the room with Sara, another friend from Cornell. We took many walks on the beach and saw several sunsets. I even swam once in the Arabian sea. The water was very nice and cool, but not cold. The beach was clean. There was no algae in the water and we even found a few tiny crabs. However, from one of the windows of our hotel we could see the sunset on the beach and from the other a fairly wide river full of trash. I wondered if all that trash (and how much more) went into the ocean and why they did not clean the part that could be seen from the side window, too. Another characteristic of big cities in India is that pollution mist is everywhere and you really cannot see far away. It is much worse than LA. Big cities there have very little vegetation and lots of people. The metropolitan area of Mumbai has more than 20 million people, which is 3 times the population of Switzerland in a much smaller area.

The Wedding

The Mehndi of the bride. It took 7 hours!

Me getting the Mehndi done.

Kiran's wedding was a Hindu ceremony with the Sanskrit vows said in both Sanskrit and English. Everything went perfectly smoothly and was on time.

First Day: the Mehndi
We were tattooed by professional artists with henna mud. This was my first temporary tattoo. It lasted a little more than a week. The bride had lovely, very elaborate Mehndi that the artists took seven hours to complete.

Separated Rooms.

The veil

Second Day: the ceremony
The wedding was the morning after the Mehndi in Worli, Mumbai - one of the original seven islands that constituted the city of Mumbai. First the bride and then the groom enter. They are initially placed in separate chambers. Later they come down each with their own family. At this point they are still separated by a veil. Eventually, the veil is removed and they literally tie the knot and place garlands of flowers on each other. It is difficult to imagine that some couples first saw each other at their marriage ceremony once the veil was removed.

Praying together.

My friends and I.

At the end they take seven steps together and pray for the success of the marriage together with the audience. Then in the evening there was a party where everyone stayed in line to congratulate the bride and groom. One of the best things about the Indian culture is that family and friends are united and help each other much more than in most western cultures, and you see some of the support in the many attendees of the wedding.

 Third Day: New Delhi
In New Delhi, where the family of the bride lives, they had another evening celebration with really good modern music sang by a band and good food, and more amazingly nice people.  It was as cold as in Switzerland - about 5 degrees Celsius and every woman was freezing in her Sari,  which are lovely garments for the summer. Most people value appearances much more than I do. I was wearing Indian bought outfits, though. I went shopping at W - a very nice store that I highly recommend. I stayed with its owners for my two days in Delhi and they were kind and open minded. I spent time with Jasmine and her very beautiful, sweet and really smart one year old daughter, and with her parents, and her brother. India is a democracy after all - where many people who are high up mostly deserve to be there.

The groom's family were of Brahman caste, but that did not matter at all for my friend and her husband. They met on their own - no arranged marriage, and Kiran's family is very well seen in India and in the rest world without any caste. However, when I traveled back to Switzerland I stayed next to a gentlemen of Indian origin who saw my Mehndi and asked about the caste of the newly weds. So, it still seems to be something that people define as important. He did not ask me about their profession, for example, which seems more relevant to me or about their level of education.

What do I think of arranged marriages after coming back from India?
My friends met on their own. However, one of the young women at the wedding, who is getting a US education at a really good college and is planning to go to medical school after college, said that she will have an arranged marriage because it is the custom in her caste and this is fine with her. If she had said this to me a few years ago, I would have thought that it is crazy for an educated woman to not try to date and find someone to share her life with on her own. Now that I have a child, I understand the arranged marriage point of view better.

I see marriage more as a partnership with many necessary compromises on both sides than as something driven mostly by passion. In this sense, the arranged marriage is a partnership that has been evaluated by more eyes, and I think it's OK as long as the couple does meet and date for at least 6 months before the wedding and both partners have the right of veto. It can be seen as a dating service run by families and the stronger the family is, the more connections it has and the more likely it is to make a good match. However, it still feels better when a person finds their pair on their own because that relies on their strength and their social & networking abilities and not on those of their families. Arranged marriages may also be seen as a stress reliever in some cases- i.e., if the person cannot find someone on their own, they have a plan to fall back on and a shot at not being alone forever, which ends up being the case for many educated people who work too much.

Note that I am only writing about marriages where both parties are older than 18. Child marriages are something else entirely, and I totally disagree with those.

A Glimpse of Old Delhi
This short video  gives a glimpse of the busy streets in Old Delhi with all the bikes, people and other contraptions on the road. Mumbai is similar - only it's much warmer there, but New Delhi is much more modern. In Mumbai, the warm weather caused dogs to sleep seemingly all the time. Cats and crows were busier, but the stray dogs seemed to just sleep. I was a little disappointed that I did not see more exotic animals: parrots, monkeys, etc.

Are the different classes/castes noticeable?
The caste is, of course, not written on anyone's forehead. However, India has a huge gap between the rich and the poor. There was a little malnourished baby who was perhaps 7 or 8 months old. He was just sleeping naked in the middle of the sidewalk curled up with another older child. As a mother, that was the hardest for me to see.  Those who are poor do not have much access to education and so they stay poor. Fruit sellers, cloth sellers and drivers can not hold a conversation in English and some cannot add or subtract well (especially those working to help the main person who sells). They do understand words strictly related to their trade. However, the people working at the hotel reception were "higher class" and spoke fluent English.

English is taught well in schools in India and if a person is educated, they will speak fairly good English. Many books in bookstores are in English. So I bought some math, science and reading textbooks for my nephew, David, who is starting school next year, and some books with poems and a story book with 101 stories for boys. The story book advices children to work hard, be polite, and so on, which is how I want my children to be, but you can easily see that it comes from a male dominated culture. Obedient women who blindly trust their spouse are featured and rewarded. A husband sells the family cow for two apples. His wife is not angry with him when he gets home, but states that he always takes the best decisions, and they get rewarded with lots of money by a friend who sees the amount of trust between the wife and husband. I agree that trust is valuable in marriage, BUT TO NOT bring up a generation of misguided boys, it should be emphasized from an early age that the actions of an individual matter the most and not whether they are female or male. They should introduce more books not just with women and girls as protagonists, but with men who think highly of their wifes and respect women and are rewarded for that.

Overall Impression

David and Edward under our Xmas trees.

I loved India! In addition to seeing my friend through one of the happiest events of her life, I met a number of other amazing people who have created successful businesses & schools/institutes that each changed the world in their own way. I have seen a part of Asia for the first time. I was thankful to be there, but I am also thankful to be back home to watch the fireworks for 2013 from the street next to my (rented) house and to be under the Christmas trees with my family.

Happy new year everyone!



Conclusion
I conclude with two pictures of the Taj Mahal, a beautiful tomb built for an empress.

Pollution mist around the Taj Mahal.

Taj Mahal - a closer view.

 It's one of the most amazing sights of India. The mist is as shocking as the beauty of the building. These are pictures taken by Sara. In New Delhi, I saw the Lotus temple, which is impressive as a building and through the perfect silence for meditation that people can maintain inside the temple. However,  my camera was out of battery by then. 

These perhaps are obvious statements, but I will write them anyway:  more needs to be done to (1) curb pollution & add vegetation to big cities and (2) keep children (and older people) fed, educated and off the streets. Concrete actions take courage, and we need more courage to solve these two issues - not just in India, but in many other places around the world. We also need to stop cutting trees from poorer countries and instead plant more trees. We have this issue in Romania as well, where so many forests are being cut because they are simply not worth keeping as an investment.

ACMEScience News Video Interview

Mihai and I talked to Samuel Hansen of ACMEScience News Now about the applicability of atomic clocks to every day life. This was our first video interview over skype. The lighting in our house was not great, neither was our attire and I mumbled a little, but the video does get the main ideas across if you are interested in atomic clocks and I hope we'll do better next time.

Samuel is a great host! You should support his series of interviews because they give a glimpse of some of the best science available to the general public!

The movie can be found on

http://www.acmescience.com/?p=1781

and on youtube (you will also find it if you just search for Mihai Bondarescu or Ruxandra Bondarescu on youtube):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bol1AISSNm4

The animation in the video was created by Thomas Glauninger and Daniela Isch of the University of Zurich IT team.

I wanted to post the video below as well, but Sam's description does not show up and I am not sure if the pageviews are counted on youtube if I post it here.